Bonjour Paris

Finalement! Nous sommes arrivés à Paris hier. Maintenant, nous sommes dans la Ville du Monde, la Ville Lumière. [Finally! We arrived in Paris yesterday. Now, we are in the city of the world, the city of lights.]

Everyone made it safe and soundly through Charles de Gaulle airport and to our hotel early Tuesday afternoon. Unsurprisingly, most students were jet lagged from their overseas flights (excluding the Iceland group), however our travel exhaustion didn’t stop Dr. Vanderboegh and Dr. Calvert from launching us straight into the program. After giving us a brief orientation on hotel and Parisian etiquette, as well as allowing us a short break to withdraw money and check out the Monoprix (France’s much nicer version of a dollar store), our professors guided us on a pleasant walk toward Île de la Cité.

During our walk, Paris welcomed us with remarkably nice weather, fascinating architecture, and impressive street performers. Even if we were a little too tired to absorb everything we passed, we were still entranced by the hypnotic pulse of the city on a bright afternoon. On Dr. Vanderboegh’s recommendation, we took fifteen minutes to explore an excellent bookstore in le Quartier latin (a dangerous place for bibliophiles – trust me) before continuing our tour down Sébastopol.

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Crossing the Seine on our sunny walk through Paris. Notice the road snaking along the right side of the river. Originally, the route was open to traffic, but recently, the city’s only opened the road to pedestrians, meaning you can now enjoy a lovely stroll next to the Seine.

Dr. Calvert and Dr. Vanderboegh treated us to dinner afterwards. We scarfed down our various pizzas and pastas before students finally began hitting the wall and drifting off in the restaurant. That was our cue to return to the hotel for some much needed sleep before our first full day tomorrow. (Fun Fact: During WWII when German soldiers occupied France, Nazis camped in the very hotel we are staying in!)

The next morning, we visited le Parc des Buttes-Chaumont, a beautiful local site filled with colorful flowers, artificial rivers, diverse wooded areas, and captivating views of northern Paris and Montmartre. As you walk through the park, the entire place comes alive with a sweet melody in contrast with the city’s typical allegro as the cool breezes shake leaves like tambourines, the birds perform nostalgic arias, and the water maintains a steady pulse in the fountains and down the man-made stream. It truly is a musical gem in Paris. (Traveler’s Tip: If you want to get an authentic taste of Paris without the crowds, visit Buttes-Chaumont. Very few tourists know about it, and it really is a breath of fresh air – hence it’s nickname as one of the “lungs in Paris”.)

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Known as one of the “lungs of Paris,” Buttes-Chaumont is a beautiful historical and locally loved park with few tourists haunting its walkways.

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Students and Dr. Vanderboegh walking through the artificial grotto in Buttes-Chaumont.

Ironically, the aesthetic appeal of the park conceals Buttes-Chaumont’s dark historical past as an execution site and dumping ground for Paris. Before Napoleon III constructed the park to model the British gardens he loved so much in the 19th century, the hill was brimming with carcasses and waste from animals and humans alike. Buttes-Chaumont even inspired Ballades des pendus (“Ballad of the Hanged”), an epithlet written by the famous French medieval poet François Villon while he contemplated his own mortality before the impending threat of execution.

Of course by the time we finished discussing Buttes-Chaumont’s gruesome history, we’d all worked up an appetite, so we headed over to the world famous Champs Elysées for a quick lunch. Following our déjeuner at La Brioche Dorée (a French fast food restaurant), we wandered over to l’Arc de Triomphe for touristy photos and to see memorials for the unknown soldiers and combatants who’d given their lives during the Napoleonic, World Wars, and Algerian Wars.

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Arc de Triomphe feat. the Iceland Squad.

We ended our day by running around the Louvre in our own small groups. Some of us followed Dr. Calvert – our faculty expert on Islamic culture, Middle Eastern civilizations and classics – through the Egyptian section of the museum and learned quite a bit about ancient Egyptian culture, rituals, and symbols. Sticking to Dr. Calvert was definitely a good decision not only for his insight, but also because we probably would have accidentally passed some important Egyptian relics without a guide (like the Book of the Dead). Others split up to see Greek antiquity art and Renaissance paintings.

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Venus de Milo, the epitome of classical beauty.

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You know you’re looking at a famous painting when you recognize it from a Coldplay album cover.

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The Louvre’s most famous painting – La Jaconde, or the Mona Lisa.

All in all, we’ve had a fabulous introduction to Paris and we’re eager to continue learning about la ville du monde.

Au revoir,

Geai Bleu

Our Final Days in the Land of Ice and Fire

Brace yourselves: a long blog post is coming!

It’s been three days since I’ve written, and we’ve accomplished quite a bit in that short amount of time. To stay organized and save reading time, I’ve condensed it all in a series of days and bullet points (not my typical style, but I’m a little pressed for time because we leave for France early, early in the morning [I’m not kidding; we have to get up around 2:15am]).

Saturday: Blue Lagoon, Puffins, and the City

  • Two more students arrived in Iceland early Saturday morning, going straight from the airport to the Instagram-famous Blue Lagoon, a geothermal spa which began skyrocketing in popularity after social media users documented their visits to the startling blue silica pools (or maybe that’s just the millennial in me talking). Between the relaxing warm waters and rejuvenating mud masks, Blue Lagoon made a memorable Icelandic introduction to our jet-lagged newcomers. It was an experience we won’t soon forget. (Fun Fact: Before it was one of the twenty-five wonders of the world, people believed the geothermal pools were poisonous. It wasn’t until the 70s that Icelanders began swimming in the lagoon and realized the wonderful effects it had for their skin.)
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Morgan, Sam, Kaitlin and Izzy enjoying a relaxing Girl’s Day at the Blue Lagoon.

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Morgan soaking in that refreshing silica.

  • A few other students went on a Puffin Express tour to view the native birds that inhabit Akurey island. Although the island is said to host tens of thousands of puffins, most of the birds were out hunting for sand eels by the time our boat started circling their homes. Still, we spotted a few puffin pairs floating/flying around Akurey. We attempted to photograph them, but puffins – who are small, speedy, and easily spooked – are extremely difficult to film from far away. Luckily I managed to snap a few decent shots.
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Puffins are monogamous birds but they only spend approximately four months together per year. Perhaps distance is the key to a happy marriage?

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A spooked puffin ready for liftoff.

  • We also spent Saturday night wandering through Reykjavík again, exploring some of the monuments we hadn’t seen yet like Harpa, the Sun Voyager, and the Flee Market. Some students also tried the best ice cream in Iceland – Valdis, which was definitely a delicious treat even in cold weather.
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One of Reykjavík’s most stunning pieces of architecture: Harpa Symphony Hall.

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The Sun Voyager in Reykjavík’s harbor.

Sunday: Gjáin Hike

  • We spent our Sunday morning finally getting around to hiking Gjáin, a hidden oasis of waterfalls in the middle of lava fields. We drove for approximately two hours before hiking for forty minutes, but our efforts were well worth it. The valley was one of the most beautiful sights we’d seen in Iceland thus far, and we absolutely loved every minute we spent exploring this fantastical playground. Our pictures don’t really do this gem justice, but suffice it to say that we were thoroughly enchanted by Gjáin. (Traveler’s Tip: If you’re headed to Iceland and want to avoid the crowds, Gjáin is a must. We didn’t encounter any other tourists during our time there. Plus, it’s free to hike and parts of Game of Thrones were filmed here.)
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Gjáin, the hidden valley of waterfalls. We hiked for about forty minutes through desolate landscape before encountering this secret oasis.

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We ignored TLC’s advice and went chasing waterfalls.

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Taylor admiring one of Gjáin’s many waterfalls.

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Izzy basking in the first sunlight we’ve seen in a while.

Monday: The Golden Circle

  • We ended our last day in Iceland by taking an eight-hour guided tour of the Golden Circle. The Golden Circle is a series of breathtaking national monuments and  geological features, rich in both Iceland’s history and natural splendor. Our tour progressed with the following: (I know, another bullet list, yay!)
    1. Þingvellir National Park – We hiked between the drifting American and Eurasia tectonic plates (Fun Fact: Iceland gains about 2cm in land mass every year), saw Lögrétta, where the clans’ chieftains used to meet to make important legislative decisions every summer, and paid our condolences at the eerie Drowning Pool, where dozens of women were executed for committing adultery or undesirable unions.
    2. Geysir – We witnessed geysers erupt and ate lunch by the geothermal park.
    3. Gullfoss – We saw the best waterfalls in Iceland, which needless to say were a sight to behold. Both the lower and upper falls are absolutely captivating. (Fun Fact: There’s a stone memorial by the falls to Sigríður Tómasdóttir, a young woman who “saved” the waterfalls from corporations by walking all the way to Reykjavík and threatening to throw herself over Gullfoss. In reality, she didn’t actually save the waterfalls from exploitation; a late lease payment made the contract null between her father and the British men who wanted to harness Gullfoss’ hydropower. But for her efforts, she’s remembered as Iceland’s first environmentalist.)
    4. We had the opportunity to feed and pet Icelandic horses during an impromptu stop.
    5. Keri∂ – We ended our tour at this volcanic crater lake which, due to the materials in the soil surrounding it, is an incredible aquamarine color.
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First stop on our Golden Circle Tour: Þingvellir National Park.

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Second destination: Geysir.

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Third destination: Gullfoss (Golden Falls)! (Sorry for the splotches on my camera lens; it was pretty misty.)

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Taylor and JP posing in front of Gulfoss Lower Falls.

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Izzy making friends with the Icelandic horses.

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And our final stop: Keri∂ Crater.

And so ends our time in Iceland. Next stop, Paris – la ville du monde!

Already missing this beautiful country,

Geai Bleu

Hunting for Huldufólk, the Hidden Folk in Iceland

Inclement weather prevented our excursion to Gjàin, so instead we went hunting for huldufólk – or “Hidden Folk,” when translated – the elves, fairies, and supernatural beings said to inhabit rock formations and water in Iceland. According to folktales, the huldufólk were born from Adam and Eve, but were concealed from God because Eve was ashamed for their dirtiness. Angry with her deception, God declared that “what man hides from God, God will hide from man” and from then on, Eve’s children became invisible to the human eye.

Approximately 54% of Iceland’s population believes in the existence of huldufólk, some claiming to have the “sight” to see these invisible spirits, and others swearing to have experienced elvish mischief themselves. And while this number is on the decline, a significant amount of people still believe enough that sometimes development projects are put on hold to avoid disturbing huldufólk territory. Since this phenomenon is uncommon in the States, and because we were genuinely curious in spite of our skepticism, we thought it would be fun to track down these elves.

We first hunted for these elusive creatures in Hellisgerdi, a small Icelandic town which is home to several geothermal hot springs. Although we didn’t see any water spirits swimming downriver, we were enchanted by the waterfall we stumbled across on our short hike. We were also awestruck by the beautiful landscape we were in. It seems that no matter what direction you look, Iceland takes your breath away.

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We stumbled across this waterfall in Hveragerdi while exploring Iceland.

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Imitating Titanic’s “King of the World” moment in Hveragerdi.

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Experiencing some serious fantasy vibes from the other side of the waterfall.

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Lone playground equipment in a sea of green.

We also explored the geothermal park in Hveragerdi. Even though we visited during the dry season, we still caught some refreshing steam from the hot springs. And after our brief trek through the park, we tried some world-famous Icelandic rye bread, which had been made over the hot springs. (Traveler’s Tip: Icelandic rye bread is actually really delicious and you should definitely try it, especially if it was baked using geothermal pools.)

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The warmest part of our hike through Hveragerdi’s Geothermal Park.

We decided to pick up our fairy hunt again in Hellisgerdi Park, a beautiful lava park in Hafnarfjördur which is believed to host the largest elf colony in Iceland. Again, we failed to find any hidden folk but we found several caves we suspected the elves probably occupied. And the park certainly had a supernatural, if not eerie, atmosphere as we wandered through it.

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Hellisgerdi Park in Hafnafjödur is apparently one of the most inhabited sites for Iceland’s spiritual beings, the “Hidden Folk.”

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None of us had the “sight” to see the Hidden Folk, but the park definitely had a sacred, quiet atmosphere.

In the end our hunt turned out in vain, but we still managed to see some lovely hole-in-the-wall locations in Iceland. Even so, maybe some Icelanders would claim we had a supernatural experience anyway. After all, we did happen to catch a brush of bad luck after our excursion when we got locked outside of our apartment for ten minutes – and Icelandic superstition says that misfortune befalls those who disturb the huldufólk. So who knows?

Hopefully we’re not cursed forever,

Geai Bleu

Red Eyed and Winded in Reykjavík

While most of us are still packing our bags and quivering with anticipation for our adventures in Paris, some students decided to take a small detour to Iceland for the week. Early this Thursday morning, three of us arrived in Keflavik, Iceland, exhausted and sleep-deprived from our red-eye flight out of Chicago together, but excited to see what the land of ice and fire had in store for us.

After making our way through a particularly busy customs line and stamping our passports, we managed to nab our luggage from baggage claim and brave the freezing Icelandic air outside. Immediately, we were struck by an icy barrage of Atlantic wind, and for a moment, we regretted not bringing heavier coats. Even after our bodies adjusted to the chillier climate, the wind’s persistence drove us to seek shelter inside our rental car and buildings throughout the day.

Because another student was scheduled to arrive at KEF Airport later in the afternoon, we spent our morning exploring Keflavik rather than traveling to Iceland’s capitol Reykjavík. First, we discovered a small museum called Viking World, which detailed the history and culture of Scandinavian vikings as well as their navigational prowess. Of course, the main thing on our minds when we visited Viking World was the breakfast buffet (but as poor college students who hadn’t eaten for hours, can you blame us?). After sating our appetites, we wandered the museum and realized that between its Inuit artifacts and life-size ship replica, Viking World had quite a bit of fascinating Icelandic culture to offer.

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The Islendingur braved the Atlantic sea when it crossed from Iceland to North America in 2000. Now it resides in the Viking World museum in Keflavik, Iceland.

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Tupilaks were similar to voodoo dolls in Inuit culture except that they devour their victim’s soul. According to legend, tupilaks could also be turned against their own creators if a powerful enough shaman intervened.

Once we’d thoroughly examined Viking World’s exhibits, we headed further North toward the coast to catch a glimpse of some seaside hidden treasures. Not every stop ended up being a gem (Traveler’s Tip: Do NOT visit the “Giantess in the Mountain” unless you’re accompanied by small children), but a few awarded us with some beautiful ocean views and non-touristy, historic monuments.

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A small boat harbor we discovered in Keflavik, Iceland. We could only stand the cold wind for a few minutes before rushing back to the safety of our rental car.

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Gar∂skagi Lighthouse dedicated to Iceland by the United States after Icelanders rescued 83 American men from drowning during World War II.

After visiting the Gar∂skagi Lighthouse, we started running out of things to do to pass the time. Luckily, our fourth student’s flight landed early from Ireland, allowing us to finally drive up to Reykjavík and check into our Airbnb. We got a little lost on the way and perhaps experienced our first culture shock when we had to ask Icelanders for directions. While the Icelandic people seem friendly for the most part, it’s challenging keeping their patience when you can barely pronounce street names or landmarks. Honestly, the Icelanders cram so many letters into one word, I’m surprised by how quickly they rattle names off of their tongues. Imagine three “M-i-s-s-i-s-s-i-p-p-i’s” squished together; now imagine that five times worse, and you might understand our grips with the Icelandic language.

We also experienced our first foreigner flub on this trip when we attempted to leave a parking structure after dinner in Reykjavík (Traveler’s Tip: Nonnabiti makes really delicious, well priced sub sandwiches [or “boats” as the restaurant calls them] and is an excellent food place for travelers on the go). Apparently, instead of paying for your parking pass at the entrance/exit of the parking lot, you’re supposed to go up to the top floor and manually pay for a ticket, which you can then give to the machine to pass through. Unfortunately, we didn’t realize this, and so for ten minutes we were stuck trying to back out of a narrow parking tunnel and accidentally blocking traffic in the process, all the while trying to figure out why we couldn’t get the machine take our unpaid ticket. Luckily, some natives came to our rescue, but we were still pretty embarrassed by the situation and more acutely aware of the “dumb American” stereotype we were falling into.

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Some sights from our evening stroll through Reykjavík before our first foreigner flub.

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The imposingly tall Hallgrímskirkja Church (a pilgrimage we made after our parking garage incident to cleanse ourselves of the embarrassment).

But don’t worry, friends! We won’t let a little social faux pas ruin this incredible experience for us! Tomorrow we plan to visit Gjáin, a hidden valley of waterfalls that few tourists know about. And soon, we’ll be joined by two other students to complete our Iceland group before we fly over to Paris Tuesday morning. So while this country keeps our teeth chattering and our eyes red from sleep deprivation and saltwater, keep these adventurous Creighton Bluejays in your thoughts and prayers!

Winded from all this excitement,

Geai Bleu